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12. 中国旅游: 轮台的金色胡杨　The Golden Poplars of Luntai

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        沿着314国道，我们来到我国"西气东输"工程的起点——轮台县。这里是塔里木石油勘探开发的主战场，塔里木油田已探明可控制的石油储量为3.5亿吨，其中轮台境内1亿吨；天然气5,000亿立方米，其中轮台境内有1,000亿立方米。这里有壮美的世界级胡杨林保护区，有世界最长的沙漠公路，有神奇的塔克拉玛干沙漠景观，有中国最长的内陆河——塔里木河。

        轮台县位于天山南麓，塔里木盆地北缘。古轮台国地处西域中部，为丝绸之路北道要冲，为汉代西域36国之一。轮台国于公元前102年灭亡，公元前72年复国为乌垒国。公元前60年东汉政权在西域设西域都护府，魏晋南北朝时期属龟兹，隋朝属西突厥。唐朝属龟兹都督府乌垒州，北宋属高昌回鹘，南宋属西辽，元朝属别失八里。1759年清朝在轮台设阿奇木伯克官职，隶属喀喇沙尔办事大臣。1902年设置布古尔县，隶属焉耆府，后改称轮台县。

Cruising along Highway G314, we arrive at the origin of China's "West-East natural gas transmission project"—Luntai. This is the main battlefront of Tarim Petroleum Exploration and Development. The Tarim oilfield has been proven to have a cache of 350 million tons in tappable oil reserves, of which 100 million lie within the boundaries of Luntai, and 500 billion cubic meters of natural gas, of which 100 billion lie within the boundaries of Luntai. Luntai also features a magnificent world-class poplar forest conservation area, the world's longest desert highway, mystical Taklimakan Desert scenery, and China's longest inland river—the Tarim River.

Luntai County is located at the southern foot of the Tianshan Mountain, at the north edge of the Tarim Basin. The ancient Luntai state was located in the central part of the Western Regions, and was a hub on the northern route of the Silk Road. It was one of the 36 Western Regions states during the Han Dynasty. The state of Luntai was destroyed in 102 B.C. and reborn in 72 B.C. as Wulei state. In 60 B.C., the Eastern Han Dynasty established the Western Regions Frontier Command there. During the Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties it was part of Qiuci state, and during the Sui Dynasty it belonged to the Western Turks. During the Tang Dynasty it belonged to the Qiuci Wulei state of the military government; during the Northern Song Dynasty, the Gaochang Uygur kingdom; during the Southern Song Dynasty, the Western Liao; during the Yuan Dynasty, Bexibalik state. In 1759, the Qing Dynasty founded the Aqimuboke  government post in Luntai, under the amban of Karashar. In 1902, Bugur County was established under the Yanqi prefecture, and later it came to be known as Luntai County.

        塔里木胡杨林国家森林公园总面积100平方公里，位于塔克拉玛干沙漠东北边缘的塔里木河中游，轮台县城南沙漠公路70公里处，是新疆面积最大的原始胡杨林公园，也是整个塔里木河流域原始胡杨林最集中的区域。是世界上最古老、面积最大、保存最完整、最原始的胡杨林保护区。胡杨是公元三世纪残余的古老树种，是一种因沙化而转化的植物，其珍贵的程度与银杏齐名，具有极强的生命力，有活化石之称。

        秋季是大漠戈壁最动人的季节，走在沙漠的边缘，虽然穿着高帮登山鞋，但一不小心也会深陷沙中，即使没有风的干扰，照相机也总落着一层尘土。整片胡杨林在荒漠经历了漫漫岁月，用三千年的时间形成一道独特的风景。它们在耐心的等待，默默地积蓄着力量等待来世，凝重的金色里透露着苍凉，古朴的庄重里弥漫着悲壮，让我更加感觉生命的可贵。

Tarim Poplar National Forest Park covers a total area of 100 square kilometers, located midway on the Tarim River at the northeast edge of the Taklimakan Desert, 70 kilometers south along the desert highway from Luntai. It is Xinjiang's largest primitivepoplar forest park, and it boasts the highest concentration of primitive poplars in the entire Tarim River basin. It is the world's oldest, largest, best preserved, and most primitivepoplar forest conservation area. The poplar tree is an ancient tree left behind from the third century A.D., a species that has adapted to the desertification of its environment. On par with the ginkgo tree in terms of value, the poplar tree is a tenacious survivor and is aptly called a living fossil. 

Autumn is the most beautiful season in the vast Gobi desert. Even equipped with hiking boots, one careless step along the desert's edge and you are mired in sand; even without the mischief of the wind, your camera is always coated with dust. Three thousand years of weathering the wilderness has shaped the poplar forest into quite a unique landscape. The poplars wait patiently, silently storing up strength for the afterlife, their dignified golden hue belying their desolation, their unadorned solemnity being tragically heroic, once again reminding me of the preciousness of life.


        本文内容及图片均来自飘尘的博客http://marcojiang.blog.sohu.com，为适应栏目需求文字略有修改。感谢原作者的转载授权和大力支持。

The content and photographs of this article are taken from Piaochen's blog http://marcojiang.blog.sohu.com. The text was abridged to fit the requirements of the column. We thank the original author for authorizing the reprint and for his enthusiastic support.





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