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诡异古堡"魔鬼城" ——《新疆行》之三 The city of Devils---A trip to Xinjiang Ⅲ



       在新疆哈密市东方,大漠深处,分布着一处大自然巧夺天工的天下奇观——雅丹地貌,这里被称为"魔鬼城"。它位于哈密市西南丝绸之路古道上的五堡古墓群,距哈密市75公里,东西长达200公里,南北宽10~15公里。据考证,"雅丹"又名"雅尔当",原为维吾尔语,意思是"陡峭的小山丘"。19世纪末至20世纪初,瑞典人斯文•赫定和英国人斯坦因赴罗布泊考察后,在文章中多次采用了这个词汇,于是"雅丹"一词便成了国际地理学界考古学通用的术语,专指干燥区一种特殊的地貌。

Yadan landform lies deep in the desert of east Hami, Xinjiang. Known as the "city of ghosts", It is a spectacularlandscape formed with supernatural workmanship. Yadan landform is located near the ancient tombs at Wubao, along the old Silk Road in the southwest of Hami, 75 km from the city center. It is 200 km from east to west and 10-15 km from north to south. Originally, "(雅丹) yadan" means " steep mound" in the Uighur language. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Swede Sven Hedin and the Englishman Stein made a geographicalexpedition to Lop Nor and later published many research articles, in which they used the word "yadan" many times.  Gradually it became a term widely used in the field of geography, referring to  special  landform features in arid districts.


        雅丹地貌的形成经历了一个漫长的历史过程。据说远古时期这个地区曾是大海。地下河流冲积岩石,形成河道。海陆变迁后,淤积海底的泥沙凝结起来,隆起成为山包。这些大小不等的山包,经数百万年的风蚀作用,形状各异、大小不同、方圆参差、高低错落,实在是鬼斧神工、妙造天成。它们形成了颇具规则的河谷、高矮不等的土岗和刀刻斧凿的雕塑。一个个自然形成的景致,有的像人而非人,有的像鸟而非鸟,造型千姿百态。据称,哈密雅丹地貌是迄今为止世界上发现的规模最大、地质形态发育最成熟、最具观赏价值且唯一发现曾经有人居住的古驿站的雅丹地貌群落。

The formation of yadan landscape takes a long course of history. It is said that in the ancient times this district was a vast ocean. Alluvium deposits from flowing subterranean rivers formed channels. With the passage of time and corollary changes in landscape, sediment in the sea slowly condensed, gradually  forming  into small mounds, which, over millions of years were slowly carved by wind erosion. The resulting formations of all different shapes and sizes bear the signature of divine craftsmanship. The wind eroded landscape displays standard river valleys, hillocks of different heights and even "sculptures" of great artistry exhibiting a great variety of forms, some of which resemble human beings, while some look like birds. Yadan landscape in Hami is said to be the most beautiful among all Yadan landscapes, with its large scale and fully developed land formations. Moreover, it is the only Yadan landscape in the world where there are human inhabitations.




       每当夜幕降临狂风骤起时,雅丹地貌里就会发出鬼哭狼嚎令人毛骨悚然的吼叫声,"魔鬼城"因此而得名。"魔鬼城"名字最早来自于放羊的蒙古人,他们称它为"苏鲁木哈克",意为"魔鬼住的地方"。十分凑巧的是,哈萨克族的牧羊人叫它"舍伊坦克尔希",也是"魔鬼住的地方"。所以"魔鬼城"这个名字就得到了公认。

The reason why it is called "the city of ghosts" is that when the fierce gales are in a rage at dusk, hair-raising howling sounds like those of ghosts blow through the land formations. The name was first given by Mongolian shepherds. They called it "苏鲁木哈克", which means "a place where the ghosts live". Oddly enough, Kazakh shepherds called it "舍伊坦克尔希", which bears the same meaning. Therefore, it is no wonder that "the city of ghosts" is widely acknowledged.


       我们到达魔鬼城的时候,太阳将近落山,古堡的身影在暮色中,越发显得神秘。登上山顶,四下没有人迹,城堡内静寂无声,只有我们的身影落在苍凉的山坡上。

We reached the city of ghosts near sunset. The Yadan castle-like formations became all the more mysterious at dusk. We arrived at the top of a hill and found no traces of other people. There was a still and awful calm around us; only our shadows fell on the desolate hillside.




        因为没有狂风骤起,所以魔鬼们并没有发出它们的怪号,我们因此也无缘与它们相会。

There was no wind that night, so we didn't hear the howling sounds of ghosts, nor did we have the chance to meet them.


        魔鬼城的魅力已经尽显。我们在感叹大自然鬼斧神工的同时,更是感到人类在自然面前的渺小与无奈。说什么征服大自然,改造大自然,不过是人类一厢情愿。因此,顺应自然,与自然和谐相处才是明智之道。

 We have sucked the charms of the city of devils. When we were amazed at the extraordinaryworkmanship of nature, we also felt the vulnerability of human beings faced with nature. Mankind is in vain in their proclamations of conquering and changing nature. It would be wiser for us to respect and live in harmony with nature.


本文内容及图片均来自一尘天空的博客http://fuyunqsct.blog.sohu.com/,为适应栏目需求文字略有修改。感谢原作者的转载授权和大力支持。






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