air; and then, in the last verse, he jilted her spirit, and went on with
another spirit - I'm not quite sure of the details, but it was something

very sad, I know. Herr Boschen said he had sung it once before the
German Emperor, and he (the German Emperor) had sobbed like a little

child. He (Herr Boschen) said it was generally acknowledged to be one of
the most tragic and pathetic songs in the German language.

It was a trying situation for us - very trying. There seemed to be no
answer. We looked around for the two young men who had done this thing,

but they had left the house in an unostentatious manner immediately after
the end of the song.

That was the end of that party. I never saw a party break up so quietly,
and with so little fuss. We never said good-night even to one another.

We came downstairs one at a time, walking softly, and keeping the shady
side. We asked the servant for our hats and coats in whispers, and

opened the door for ourselves, and slipped out, and got round the corner
quickly, avoiding each other as much as possible.

I have never taken much interest in German songs since then.
We reached Sunbury Lock at half-past three. The river is sweetly pretty

just there before you come to the gates, and the backwater is charming;
but don't attempt to row up it.

I tried to do so once. I was sculling, and asked the fellows who were
steering if they thought it could be done, and they said, oh, yes, they

thought so, if I pulled hard. We were just under the little foot-bridge
that crosses it between the two weirs, when they said this, and I bent

down over the sculls, and set myself up, and pulled.
I pulled splendidly. I got well into a steady rhythmical swing. I put

my arms, and my legs, and my back into it. I set myself a good, quick,
dashing stroke, and worked in really grand style. My two friends said it

was a pleasure to watch me. At the end of five minutes, I thought we
ought to be pretty near the weir, and I looked up. We were under the

bridge, in exactly the same spot that we were when I began, and there
were those two idiots, injuring themselves by violent laughing. I had

been grinding away like mad to keep that boat stuck still under that
bridge. I let other people pull up backwaters against strong streams

now.
We sculled up to Walton, a rather large place for a riverside town. As

with all riverside places, only the tiniest corner of it comes down to
the water, so that from the boat you might fancy it was a village of some

half-dozen houses, all told. Windsor and Abingdon are the only towns
between London and Oxford that you can really see anything of from the

stream. All the others hide round corners, and merely peep at the river
down one street: my thanks to them for being so considerate, and leaving

the river-banks to woods and fields and water-works.
Even Reading, though it does its best to spoil and sully and make hideous

as much of the river as it can reach, is good-natured enough to keep its
ugly face a good deal out of sight.

Caesar, of course, had a little place at Walton - a camp, or an
entrenchment, or something of that sort. Caesar was a regular up-river

man. Also Queen Elizabeth, she was there, too. You can never get away
from that woman, go where you will. Cromwell and Bradshaw (not the guide

man, but the King Charles's head man) likewise sojourned here. They must
have been quite a pleasant little party, altogether.

There is an iron "scold's bridle" in Walton Church. They used these
things in ancient days for curbing women's tongues. They have given up

the attempt now. I suppose iron was getting scarce, and nothing else
would be strong enough.

There are also tombs of note in the church, and I was afraid I should
never get Harris past them; but he didn't seem to think of them, and we

went on. Above the bridge the river winds tremendously. This makes it
look picturesque; but it irritates you from a towing or sculling point of

view, and causes argument between the man who is pulling and the man who
is steering.

You pass Oatlands Park on the right bank here. It is a famous old place.
Henry VIII. stole it from some one or the other, I forget whom now, and

lived in it. There is a grotto in the park which you can see for a fee,
and which is supposed to be very wonderful; but I cannot see much in it

myself. The late Duchess of York, who lived at Oatlands, was very fond
of dogs, and kept an immense number. She had a special graveyard made,

in which to bury them when they died, and there they lie, about fifty of
them, with a tombstone over each, and an epitaph inscribed thereon.

Well, I dare say they deserve it quite as much as the average Christian
does.

At "Corway Stakes" - the first bend above Walton Bridge - was fought a
battle between Caesar and Cassivelaunus. Cassivelaunus had prepared the

river for Caesar, by planting it full of stakes (and had, no doubt, put
up a notice-board). But Caesar crossed in spite of this. You couldn't

choke Caesar off that river. He is the sort of man we want round the
backwaters now.

Halliford and Shepperton are both pretty little spots where they touch
the river; but there is nothing remarkable about either of them. There

is a tomb in Shepperton churchyard, however, with a poem on it, and I was
nervous lest Harris should want to get out and fool round it. I saw him

fix a longing eye on the landing-stage as we drew near it, so I managed,
by an adroit movement, to jerk his cap into the water, and in the

excitement of recovering that, and his indignation at my clumsiness, he
forgot all about his beloved graves.

At Weybridge, the Wey (a pretty little stream, navigable for small boats
up to Guildford, and one which I have always been making up my mind to

explore, and never have), the Bourne, and the Basingstoke Canal all enter
the Thames together. The lock is just opposite the town, and the first

thing that we saw, when we came in view of it, was George's blazer on one
of the lock gates, closer inspection showing that George was inside it.

Montmorency set up a furious barking, I shrieked, Harris roared; George
waved his hat, and yelled back. The lock-keeper rushed out with a drag,

under the impression that somebody had fallen into the lock, and appeared
annoyed at finding that no one had.

George had rather a curious oilskin-covered parcel in his hand. It was
round and flat at one end, with a long straight handle sticking out of

it.
"What's that?" said Harris - "a frying-pan?"

"No," said George, with a strange, wild look glittering in his eyes;
"they are all the rage this season; everybody has got them up the river.

It's a banjo."
"I never knew you played the banjo!" cried Harris and I, in one breath.

"Not exactly," replied George: "but it's very easy, they tell me; and
I've got the instruction book!"

CHAPTER IX.
GEORGE IS INTRODUCED TO WORK. - HEATHENISH INSTINCTS OF TOW-LINES. -

UNGRATEFUL CONDUCT OF A DOUBLE-SCULLING SKIFF. - TOWERS AND TOWED. - A
USE DISCOVERED FOR LOVERS. - STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE OF AN ELDERLY LADY. -

MUCH HASTE, LESS SPEED. - BEING TOWED BY GIRLS: EXCITING SENSATION. - THE
MISSING LOCK OR THE HAUNTED RIVER. - MUSIC. - SAVED!

WE made George work, now we had got him. He did not want to work, of
course; that goes without saying. He had had a hard time in the City, so

he explained. Harris, who is callous in his nature, and not prone to
pity, said:

"Ah! and now you are going to have a hard time on the river for a change;
change is good for everyone. Out you get!"

He could not in conscience - not even George's conscience - object,
though he did suggest that, perhaps, it would be better for him to stop

in the boat, and get tea ready, while Harris and I towed, because getting
tea was such a worrying work, and Harris and I looked tired. The only

reply we made to this, however, was to pass him over the tow-line, and he
took it, and stepped out.

There is something very strange and unaccountable about a tow-line. You
roll it up with as much patience and care as you would take to fold up a

new pair of trousers, and five minutes afterwards, when you pick it up,
it is one ghastly, soul-revolting tangle.