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it he brought in all the Sevadras, even to the twice-removed; all
the Castros who were his wife's family, all the Saises, Romeros,

and Eschobars,--the relations of his relations-in-law. There you
have the beginning of a pretty considerable town. To these accrued

much of the Spanish California float swept out of the southwest by
eastern enterprise. They slacked away again when the price of

silver went down, and the ore dwindled in La Golondrina. All the
hot eddy of mining life swept away from that corner of the hills,

but there were always those too idle, too poor to move, or too
easily content with El Pueblo de Las Uvas.

Nobody comes nowadays to the town of the grape vines except,
as we say, "with the breath of crying," but of these enough. All

the low sills run over with small heads. Ah, ah! There is a kind
of pride in that if you did but know it, to have your baby every

year or so as the time sets, and keep a full breast. So great a
blessing as marriage is easily come by. It is told of Ruy Garcia

that when he went for his marriage license he lacked a dollar of
the clerk's fee, but borrowed it of the sheriff, who expected

reelection and exhibited thereby a commendable thrift. Of what
account is it to lack meal or meat when you may have it of

any neighbor? Besides, there is sometimes a point of honor in
these things. Jesus Romero, father of ten, had a job sacking ore

in the Marionette which he gave up of his own accord. "Eh, why?"
said Jesus, "for my fam'ly."

"It is so, senora," he said solemnly, "I go to the Marionette,
I work, I eat meat--pie--frijoles--good, ver' good. I come home

sad'day nigh' I see my fam'ly. I play lil' game poker with the
boys, have lil' drink wine, my money all gone. My fam'ly have no

money, nothing eat. All time I work at mine I eat, good, ver' good
grub. I think sorry for my fam'ly. No, no, senora, I no work no

more that Marionette, I stay with my fam'ly." The wonder of it is,
I think, that the family had the same point of view.

Every house in the town of the vines has its garden plot, corn
and brown beans and a row of peppers reddening in the sun; and in

damp borders of the irrigating ditches clumps of
yerbasanta, horehound, catnip, and spikenard, wholesome herbs and

curative, but if no peppers then nothing at all. You will have for
a holiday dinner, in Las Uvas, soup with meat balls and chile in

it, chicken with chile, rice with chile, fried beans with more
chile, enchilada, which is corn cake with the sauce of chile and

tomatoes, onion, grated cheese, and olives, and for a relish chile
tepines passed about in a dish, all of which is comfortable

and corrective to the stomach. You will have wine which
every man makes for himself, of good body and inimitable bouquet,

and sweets that are not nearly so nice as they look.
There are two occasions when you may count on that kind of a

meal; always on the Sixteenth of September, and on the two-yearly
visits of Father Shannon. It is absurd, of course, that El Pueblo

de Las Uvas should have an Irish priest, but Black Rock, Minton,
Jimville, and all that country round do not find it so. Father

Shannon visits them all, waits by the Red Butte to confess the
shepherds who go through with their flocks, carries blessing to

small and isolated mines, and so in the course of a year or so
works around to Las Uvas to bury and marry and christen. Then all

the little graves in the Campo Santo are brave with tapers,
the brown pine headboards blossom like Aaron's rod with paper roses

and bright cheap prints of Our Lady of Sorrows. Then the Senora
Sevadra, who thinks herself elect of heaven for that office,

gathers up the original sinners, the little Elijias, Lolas,
Manuelitas, Joses, and Felipes, by dint of adjurations and sweets

smuggled into small perspiring palms, to fit them for the
Sacrament.

I used to peek in at them, never so softly, in Dona Ina's
living-room; Raphael-eyed little imps, going sidewise on their

knees to rest them from the bare floor, candles lit on the mantel
to give a religious air, and a great sheaf of wild bloom

before the Holy Family. Come Sunday they set out the altar in the
schoolhouse, with the fine-drawn altar cloths, the beaten silver

candlesticks, and the wax images, chief glory of Las Uvas, brought
up mule-back from Old Mexico forty years ago. All in white the

communicants go up two and two in a hushed, sweet awe to take the
body of their Lord, and Tomaso, who is priest's boy, tries not to

look unduly puffed up by his office. After that you have dinner
and a bottle of wine that ripened on the sunny slope of Escondito.

All the week Father Shannon has shriven his people, who bring clean
conscience to the betterment of appetite, and the Father sets them

an example. Father Shannon is rather big about the middle to
accommodate the large laugh that lives in him, but a most shrewd

searcher of hearts. It is reported that one derives comfort from
his confessional, and I for my part believe it.

The celebration of the Sixteenth, though it comes every year,
takes as long to prepare for as Holy Communion. The senoritas have

each a new dress apiece, the senoras a new rebosa. The
young gentlemen have new silver trimmings to their sombreros,

unspeakable ties, silk handkerchiefs, and new leathers to their
spurs. At this time when the peppers glow in the gardens and the

young quail cry "cuidado," "have a care!" you can hear the
plump, plump of the metate from the alcoves of the vines where

comfortable old dames, whose experience gives them the touch of art,
are pounding out corn for tamales.

School-teachers from abroad have tried before now at Las Uvas
to have school begin on the first of September, but got nothing

else to stir in the heads of the little Castros, Garcias, and
Romeros but feasts and cock-fights until after the Sixteenth.

Perhaps you need to be told that this is the anniversary of the
Republic, when liberty awoke and cried in the provinces of Old

Mexico. You are aroused at midnight to hear them shouting in the
streets, "Vive la Libertad!" answered from the houses and

the recesses of the vines, "Vive la Mexico!" At sunrise
shots are fired commemorating the tragedy of unhappy Maximilian,

and then music, the noblest of national hymns, as the great flag of
Old Mexico floats up the flag-pole in the bare little plaza of

shabby Las Uvas. The sun over Pine Mountain greets the eagle of
Montezuma before it touches the vineyards and the town, and the day

begins with a great shout. By and by there will be a reading of
the Declaration of Independence and an address punctured by

vives; all the town in its best dress, and some exhibits of
horsemanship that make lathered bits and bloody spurs; also a

cock-fight.
By night there will be dancing, and such music! old Santos to

play the flute, a little lean man with a saintly countenance, young
Garcia whose guitar has a soul, and Carrasco with the

violin. They sit on a high platform above the dancers in the
candle flare, backed by the red, white, and green of Old Mexico,

and play fervently such music as you will not hear otherwhere.
At midnight the flag comes down. Count yourself at a loss if

you are not moved by that performance. Pine Mountain watches
whitely overhead, shepherd fires glow strongly on the glooming

hills. The plaza, the bare glistening pole, the dark folk, the
bright dresses, are lit ruddily by a bonfire. It leaps up to the

eagle flag, dies down, the music begins softly and aside. They
play airs of old longing and exile; slowly out of the dark the flag

drops down, bellying and falling with the midnight draught.
Sometimes a hymn is sung, always there are tears. The flag is

down; Tony Sevadra has received it in his arms. The music strikes
a barbaric swelling tune, another flag begins a slow ascent,--it

takes a breath or two to realize that they are both, flag and tune,
the Star Spangled Banner,--a volley is fired, we are back, if you

please, in California of America. Every youth who has the blood of
patriots in him lays ahold on Tony Sevadra's flag, happiest if he

can get a corner of it. The music goes before, the folk fall in
two and two, singing. They sing everything, America, the

Marseillaise, for the sake of the French shepherds hereabout, the
hymn of Cuba, and the Chilian national air to comfort two

families of that land. The flag goes to Dona Ina's, with the
candlesticks and the altar cloths, then Las Uvas eats tamales and

dances the sun up the slope of Pine Mountain.
You are not to suppose that they do not keep the Fourth,

Washington's Birthday, and Thanksgiving at the town of the grape
vines. These make excellent occasions for quitting work and

dancing, but the Sixteenth is the holiday of the heart. On
Memorial Day the graves have garlands and new pictures of the

saints tacked to the headboards. There is great virtue in an
Ave said in the Camp of the Saints. I like that name which

the Spanish speaking people give to the garden of the dead,
Campo Santo, as if it might be some bed of healing from

which blind souls and sinners rise up whole and praising God.
Sometimes the speech of simple folk hints at truth the

understanding does not reach. I am persuaded only a complex soul
can get any good of a plain religion. Your earthborn is a poet and

a symbolist. We breed in an environment of asphalt pavements a
body of people whose creeds are chiefly restrictions against other

people's way of life, and have kitchens and latrines under the same
roof that houses their God. Such as these go to church to be

edified, but at Las Uvas they go for pure worship and to entreat
their God. The logicalconclusion of the faith that every good

gift cometh from God is the open hand and the finer courtesy. The
meal done without buys a candle for the neighbor's dead

child. You do foolishly to suppose that the candle does no good.
At Las Uvas every house is a piece of earth--thick walled,

whitewashed adobe that keeps the even temperature of a cave; every
man is an accomplishedhorseman and consequently bowlegged; every

family keeps dogs, flea-bitten mongrels that loll on the earthen
floors. They speak a purer Castilian than obtains in like villages

of Mexico, and the way they count relationship everybody is more or
less akin. There is not much villainy among them. What incentive

to thieving or killing can there be when there is little wealth and
that to be had for the borrowing! If they love too hotly, as we

say "take their meat before grace," so do their betters. Eh, what!
shall a man be a saint before he is dead? And besides, Holy Church

takes it out of you one way or another before all is done. Come
away, you who are obsessed with your own importance in the scheme

of things, and have got nothing you did not sweat for, come away by
the brown valleys and full-bosomed hills to the even-breathing

days, to the kindliness, earthiness, ease of El Pueblo de Las Uvas.
End




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