酷兔英语

拉上拉链。这是许多设计师希望购物者在未来几季会做的事。包括奥图扎拉(Altuzarra)、Calvin Klein Collection、迪奥(Dior)、艾丽•塔哈瑞(Elie Tahari)、詹巴迪斯塔•瓦利(Giambattista Valli)、迈克尔•科斯(Michael Kors)和The Row在内的大牌纷纷在毛衣、裙子和西装外套上加上大胆的外露拉链,以将这种原本实用的封口工具变成了抓人眼球的设计细节。


Zipper up.


拉链甚至被用来彰显衣服的个性。迈克尔•科斯在2月的2013秋季时装秀上展示了一套亮橙色"拉链套装",还有一件多尼戈尔黑白提花 "拉链套装",以及其他突出运用拉链的服装。奥图扎拉的2013秋季时装秀包括三套"拉链连身裙"和两件"拉链半身裙"。 Calvin Klein Collection在6月早些时候举行的度假女装秀上展示了一条仿麂皮人造革"前拉链"连身裙和一件"前拉链"露背上衣。


That's what a number of designers hope shoppers will be doing in the coming seasons. Designer labels, including Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Dior, Elie Tahari, Giambattista Valli, Michael Kors and the Row are putting bold and exposed zippers on sweaters, dresses and blazers, turning the typically utilitarian closure into an attention-grabbing design detail.


科斯在一封电邮中说:"秋季系列我们把拉链放到前面和中间是因为拉链拉起来很快,有图形感,而且有工业感,像一座伟大的城市一样。"


Zippers are even being used to identify the looks. Michael Kors showed a neon orange 'zip suit,' and a black and white Donegal, jacquard 'zipper suit,' among other looks prominently featuring zippers, in his fall 2013 runway show in February. Altuzarra's fall 2013 show included three 'zipper dresses' and two 'zipper skirts.' Calvin Klein Collection women's resort show earlier this month featured an ulrasuede 'zip front' dress and a 'zip front' halter top.


Calvin Klein Collection创意总监弗朗西斯科•科斯塔(Francisco Costa)说,在度假女装秀上,拉链"为衣服带来了实用但又性感和现代的元素",同时起到了"硬件和突出细节"的作用。


'For fall, we put zippers front and center because they're fast, they're graphic, and they're industrial, like a great city,' Mr. Kors said in an email.


行李箱上的拉链现在也变得更显眼了。美国贸易组织旅行用品协会(Travel Goods Association)会长米歇尔•马里尼•皮腾杰( Michele Marini Pittenger)说:"你或许不会想一直拿一个亮粉色托特皮包(tote),但诸如有色拉链这样小的颜色细节却可以增添一点乐趣。" 该协会是一个行李箱及皮具行业贸易组织。


At the Calvin Klein Collection women's resort show, zippers 'lent a functional, yet sexy and modern element to the clothes,' serving as 'both hardware and accents,' said creativedirector Francisco Costa.


抛开美学不说,拉链有时是个让人头疼的东西。它们会断掉,会卡住,甚至会困住穿衣服的人。


Zippers on luggage are also more prominent now. 'You might not want to commit to a bright pink leather tote,' said Michele Marini Pittenger, president of the Travel Goods Association, a trade group for the luggage and leather goods industry, 'but a small color accent like a colored zipper is a way to add a little fun.'


44岁的西雅图Realogics Sotheby's International Realty房地产公司创始董事斯科特•瓦斯纳(Scott Wasner)最近就发生了这么一件事。在等一名收银员结帐时,他打算拉开背心的拉链。但背心上的金属拉链却卡住了。这件背心是价值1,200美元(约合人民币7,416元)的Loro Piana外套的一部分,可拆卸,是在去年秋天买的。瓦斯纳记得自己将拉链摆弄了五、六分钟。他说:"当时我真的很沮丧,而且有点尴尬。"


Aesthetics aside, zippers can be a pain. They can break, become stuck and even hold the wearer hostage.


瓦斯纳一件价值400美元(约合人民币2,472元)的Vince卫衣也发生过拉链问题。这件衣服是双向拉链,从上到下和从下到上都可以拉。他在店里试衣服的时候拉链似乎卡住了。一名女销售员建议他用蜡纸摩擦一下,拉链就会更好拉,于是他最后还是买了。


That's what happened to Scott Wasner. While the 44-year-old founding director of Realogics Sotheby's International Realty in Seattle waited for a cashier to ring up a purchase recently, he tried to unzip his vest. But the metal zipper on the vest, a removable piece of a $1,200 Loro Piana jacket he bought last fall, became stuck. Mr. Wasner recalled fumbling with the zipper for five or six minutes. 'I was definitely frustrated and a bit embarrassed,' he said.


Loro Piana首席执行长塞乔•洛罗•皮亚那(Sergio Loro Piana)在电邮中说:"虽然有时人们认为金属拉链没有普通塑料拉链实用,但我们认为塑料拉链达不到Loro Piana一向追求的品质标准。" Vince创意总监Doo-Ri Chung不愿就瓦斯纳的经历置评,但她说拉链"确实被融进了这个品牌的个性里"。Loro Piana 和Vince均表示,遇到衣服有拉链问题的顾客应直接联系品牌寻求帮助。


Mr. Wasner had zipper issues with a $400 Vince hoodie, too. Its two-way separating zipper