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男士护理用品已经成为市场主流

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Matt Anderson was hanging out at a L'Occitane store in Washington, D.C., one afternoon, waiting for a friend's wife to finish shopping, when a saleswoman gently suggested his face and shaved head would benefit from some moisturizer.


现年37岁的马特·安德森(Matt Anderson)蓄着胡子，为美国红十字会(American Red Cross)管理一个国际疾病应对志愿者团队。一天下午，安德森在华盛顿一家欧舒丹(L'Occitane)店里闲逛，一面等候朋友的夫人买完东西。这时有位销售小姐彬彬有礼地建议，如果他在脸上和剃光的头上抹些润肤露的话会有好处。



Mr. Anderson, a 37-year-old with a beard who manages a team of international disaster-response volunteers for the American Red Cross, had never used a facial skin-care product before, much less one from Provence. But 'on a lark,' he says, he bought the Verdon Energy Face Moisturizer and soon found he liked it enough to use it twice a day.


安德森之前从来没用过面部护肤产品，更别说是欧舒丹的产品了。但他说，"抱着好玩的心态"，他买了维登活力凝乳(Verdon Energy Face Moisturizer)，很快他发现自己还挺喜欢这种产品的，每天会用上两次。



Perhaps there was a time when moisturizing wasn't 'macho,' Mr. Anderson says. 'If anything went beyond Old Spice, or if it got too poofy, you would kind of be laughed at. Now, there are so many products.'


安德森说，或许在从前擦润肤露会显得没有"男人味"。他说，"如果使用Old Spice以外的产品，或者太过脂粉气的东西，你没准儿就会被人取笑。而现在男士护肤产品多极了。"



Men's grooming has gone mainstream. Male skin care is one of the beauty industry's fastest-growing sectors, with more men adopting a grooming regimen, alongside exercise and eating right, as a component of healthy living.


男士护理用品已经成为市场主流。男士护肤品是化妆品行业增长最快的部门之一，作为健康生活方式的组成部分，越来越多的男性在锻炼身体和注意饮食的同时也在采用一套个人护理方案。



Many more men are shopping for themselves, compared with a decade ago when women made most of their purchases. Studies show men now buy as much as half of male-grooming and other types of consumer products.


现在为自己购物的男性比从前要多得多，而在十年前，男性所需的物品大多还是由女性代为购买。研究显示，现在多达一半的男士护理用品及其他类消费品是男性自己购买的。



'We have really noticed a transformational difference in the role that men play,' says Rob Candelino, vice president of skin cleansing U.S. at Unilever, whose brands include Dove, Vaseline and Axe.


联合利华(Unilever)美国洁肤业务副总裁罗布·坎戴里诺(Rob Candelino)说，"我们确实注意到男性扮演的角色产生了根本性变化。"联合利华旗下品牌包括多芬(Dove)、凡士林(Vaseline)和Axe等。



Retailers are creating shopping spaces meant to put men at ease. Nordstrom recently moved the men's grooming counter inside the men's furnishings area. Drugstore chains such as CVS and Duane Reade have tested male-dedicated sections.


零售商正在创设意在让男性感觉轻松自在的购物空间。诺德斯特龙百货(Nordstrom)近期把男士护理产品柜台搬进了男士饰品区。连锁药店CVS和Duane Reade已在试营男性用品专区。



Macy's in downtown Philadelphia has recently opened a 'men's grooming zone' on the beauty selling floor, with a flat-screen TV, free wireless Internet and a Keurig coffee maker.


位于费城市中心的梅西百货(Macy's)近期在卖化妆品的楼层开放了一个"男士护理用品区"，里面摆了一台平板电视，有免费无线网络，还有Keurig 咖啡机。



It is 'almost a men's skin-care man cave,' says Muriel Gonzalez, executive vice president for cosmetics, fragrances and shoes. A similar space is planned for a Macy's in San Francisco in June.


梅西百货化妆品、香水和鞋类业务执行副总裁穆列尔·冈萨雷斯(Muriel Gonzalez)说，这里"差不多是一个男士护肤品的男性天地。" 梅西百货计划于6月份在其旧金山分店也辟出一个类似的区域。



Male shoppers like to see the words 'for men' on labels, says Anthony Sosnick, founder of Anthony Brands Inc. But male-female product differences go deeper than packaging. Male skin-care formulas tend to be lighter and absorb faster than women's, because men's skin is oilier.


Anthony Brands Inc.的创始人安东尼·索斯尼克(Anthony Sosnick)说，男性购物者喜欢在标签上看到"男士用"的字样。但男士产品和女士产品的区别不只是包装。男士护肤品的配方往往比女士护肤品清淡，吸收更快，因为男性的皮肤比较油。



And price points tend to be lower. The Anthony Logistics for Men line has a vitamin C facial serum in stores like Sephora, where one ounce costs $42. 'If we were to price it like a women's serum, which would be maybe $80 to $100, most of our customers probably would not buy it,' Mr. Sosnick says. Price may be one reason the product has female fans.


男士护肤品的定价往往也比较低。Anthony Logistics for Men男性护肤品系列中有一种维他命C面部精华液在丝芙兰(Sephora)等店有售，一盎司装售价为42美元。索斯尼克说，"如果我们像对女士精华液那样定价的话，价格或许会在80到100美元之间，这样我们的大多数顾客就不会买了。"该产品吸引了一些女性粉丝，价格也许是一大原因。



Whether it's baby boomers hoping to overcome signs of aging or millenials who grew up spritzing Axe body spray, there's a wider spectrum of men buying grooming products than there once was.


如今购买护理产品的男性群体比以往要广泛，其中既有希望消除岁月痕迹的婴儿潮一代人，也有喷Axe身体喷雾长大的千禧一代。



'It isn't taboo anymore for men to want to take care of themselves,' says Cheri Keating, a groomer and member of the advisory board for Estee Lauder's Lab Series Skincare for Men. The brand recently introduced a brightening eye balm with a 'metallic cooling applicator' ($28) and a tinted moisturizer ($38.50).


雅诗兰黛(Estee Lauder)男士护肤系列Lab Series Skincare for Men顾问委员会成员、理容师谢里·基廷(Cheri Keating)说，"现在男性想做护肤不再是一种禁忌了。"雅诗兰黛近期推出了针对男士的一种带有"冰爽金属涂抹器"的提亮眼霜（售价28美元）和一种调色润肤露（售价38.50美元）。



Grooming and skin care is long established among gay consumers. For example, Thomas Ellington, a 31-year-old who lives in Boston and works in sociallyresponsible investing, says he began using an anti-aging cream in his early 20s. Friends told him, 'Just start using it now. You're going to regret it if you don't.'


个人护理和护肤品行业早就建立起了一批男同性恋消费者群体。31岁的托马斯·埃灵顿(Thomas Ellington)就是其中之一，埃灵顿住在波士顿，从事社会责任投资。他说自己20岁刚出头就开始使用抗衰老霜了。朋友们当时告诉他，"从现在就开始用。如果你不用的话，将来会后悔的。"



Now more heterosexual men are catching on. 'Straight friends of mine, I run into them in Sephora and Kiehl's,' says Sean Kaplan, a 32-year-old Philadelphia real-estate broker.


而现在有越来越多的异性恋男性也开始使用护肤品了。32岁的费城房地产经纪人西恩·卡普兰(Sean Kaplan)表示，"我会在丝芙兰和科颜氏(Kiehl's)碰到我的直男朋友。"



About one in four men uses some sort of facial skin-care product, whether it is facial wash, moisturizer, lip balm or eye cream, according to market research firm NPD Group. U.S. department-store sales in the male skin-care sector, which includes body lotion and hair products, reached $84.7 million last year, up about 13% from the prior year, NPD says. Compared with sales of women's skin care, which are north of $2 billion, there's still room to grow, says Karen Grant, senior global industry analyst at NPD.


市场研究公司NPD Group称，大约有四分之一的男性会使用某种面部皮肤护理产品，比如洗面奶、润肤露、唇膏和眼霜。NPD称，美国男士护肤品（包括身体乳液和护发产品在内）的百货店销售额去年达到8,470万美元，较之前一年增长约13%。NPD全球行业高级分析师凯伦·格兰特(Karen Grant)说，与超过20亿美元的女性护肤品销售额相比，男士护肤品销售还有增长的余地。



The shave -- a universal and uniquely male need -- is the focal point of most grooming routines. To lure men to the next level, brands position new products before and after, such as the pre-shave cleanse or scrub, or after-shave lotion. Kiehl's 'Ultimate Man' skin-care routine gives clear, simple instructions in its marketing materials: '1. Cleanse,' '2. Shave,' and '3. Moisturize.'


剃须──男性普遍需要剃须，同时剃须也是男性独有的需要──是多数护理程序的核心。为吸引男性向前再迈进一步，各大品牌纷纷推出在剃须前和剃须后使用的新产品，比如剃须前洗面和磨砂产品，以及剃须后润肤乳液。科颜氏"Ultimate Man"护肤程序在其营销材料中给出了清晰、简单的指导步骤："1.洁面"、"2.剃须"、"3.润肤"。



Now, men are experimenting with more-specific products, like anti-aging serum and eye cream. 'The conversation with men has changed,' says Chris Salgardo, president of Kiehl's, a L'Oreal division. Whereas a male shopper once might have asked about shaving cream, now he is likely to say, 'I'm almost 40 and I don't like these lines around my eyes,' Mr. Salgardo says, estimating about a third of Kiehl's shoppers are men.


如今，男性正在尝试使用更加专门的产品，比如抗衰老精华液和眼霜等。属于欧莱雅(L'Oreal)旗下子公司的科颜氏的总裁克里斯·萨尔加多(Chris Salgardo)说，"与男性的对话方式已经变了。"萨尔加多说，以往男性购物者光顾时可能会询问有关剃须膏的问题，现在男性顾客则有可能会说，"我快40了，我讨厌我眼睛周围这些皱纹。"他估计，在科颜氏购物的有三分之一左右是男性。



Cleansing and moisturizing are all well and good, but do men who shave every day really need to exfoliate? Men's grooming marketers say emphatically yes. Dragging a razor across un-exfoliated skin will push dead skin into pores, causing red bumps and irritation.


洁面和润肤是挺不错的，但每天刮胡子的男性真的需要去角质吗？男士护理用品营销人士肯定地说是。用剃须刀在没有去角质的皮肤上刮胡子会把死皮推进毛孔里，导致皮肤红肿发炎。



Certain milestones seem to make a man open to changing his grooming routine, says Magnus Jonsson, director of marketing for Beiersdorf Inc., whose brands include Nivea and Eucerin. The first is when he enters the workforce and 'steps into a more mature man's life,' says Mr. Jonsson. The next is often marriage or cohabitation.


旗下拥有妮维雅(Nivea)和优色林(Eucerin)等品牌的拜尔斯道夫集团(Beiersdorf Inc.)的营销主管马格努斯·琼森(Magnus Jonsson)说，某些里程碑事件似乎会让男性改变自己的个人护理习惯。琼森说，第一个里程碑是当男性进入职场，"迈入男性生命中更成熟阶段"的时候。第二个里程碑通常是在结婚或同居时。



Later, it's the appearance of gray hairs that tends to make a man reassess his grooming habits. Should he get divorced and re-enter the dating scene, he'll assess again, Mr. Jonsson said.


之后的里程碑事件会发生在男性出现花白头发时，这往往会让男性重新审视自己的个人护理习惯。琼森说，如果男性离婚并重新开始约会，他会再次审视自己的个人护理习惯。



Most men have a female 'influencer,' often his girlfriend or wife, who introduces him to more sophisticated grooming products, says Unilever's Mr. Candelino. 'Then once he's in, he starts to pay attention to things.'


联合利华的坎戴里诺说，大多数男性身边会有一个女性"影响者"，通常是他的女朋友或者妻子。她们会把更复杂的护理产品介绍给他。坎戴里诺说，"男性一旦用上了某种护理产品，就会开始关注这些东西。"



Men usually are looking for products to solve specific problems, such as dry skin or oily skin, says Jenny Belknap, vice president for global skin-care marketing at Clinique, a brand at Estee Lauder. But they are wary of beauty-industry claims. 'You're not going to pull the wool over their eyes,' she says. 'They're going to try it for themselves and make that determination.'


雅诗兰黛旗下品牌倩碧(Clinique)的全球护肤营销业务副总裁珍妮·贝尔纳普(Jenny Belknap)说，男性通常会为解决某些特定的问题而寻找产品，比如皮肤干燥或者皮肤油腻。但他们对化妆品行业的说辞是保持警惕的。她说，"你不能蒙他们，他们会自己去试用，然后自己做决定。"



For its Anti-Fatigue Cooling Eye Gel, Clinique opted for a tongue-in-cheek message. 'Rough night? No one will ever know,' the website description reads. 'Combats puffiness, dark circles. Absorbs quickly.'


倩碧为其冰凉醒神眼部口喱(Anti-Fatigue Cooling Eye Gel)打出一个半开玩笑的广告。倩碧网站上这样写道，"夜里辛苦了？没人能看出来。对付眼部浮肿、黑眼圈。吸收迅速。"



When Curran Dandurand and Emily Dalton created the Jack Black skin-care line, the two women opted for cobalt-blue packaging and a script font, meant to resemble cigar and liquor packaging. The name is meant to sound familiar -- like a buddy a man would grab a beer with (and no relation to the actor).


库兰·当迪朗(Curran Dandurand)和艾米丽·达尔顿(Emily Dalton)这两位女士在创建Jack Black护肤品牌时选择了钴蓝色的包装和一种手写体，让它们看起来类似雪茄和酒的包装。该品牌取这个名字旨在给人一种熟悉的感觉──听起来就像男士会邀上一起喝啤酒的一个好友（与演员杰克·布莱克(Jack Black)可没有关系）。



The two chose mostly plastic containers, and they decided against an outer cardboardcarton for most products, to encourage men to pick products up in their hands. Ms. Dalton says, 'We wanted to grant him permission, in a way, like, 'Hey, this is for you.''


这两位女士主要选择塑料容器，她们还决定，大多数产品都不使用外包装纸盒，以鼓励男性在手上试用产品。达尔顿说，"我们要对男士说'嘿，这是给你的。'我们想以这类方式将试用权授予各位男士。"



Elizabeth Holmes


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