Forget the one-versus-two-buttons debate, or the can-you-wear-colourful-socks-in-the-boardroom question. When it comes to dividing men along fashion lines, nothing is more heated than the topic of shirtsleeves. Short or long? That is the question.
And despite the fact that we are fast approaching the dog days of summer, for most men, it seems, there is still only one answer.
"Only T-shirts and polo shirts can have short sleeves", declares Rufus Albemarle, the British-born designer who last year launched a collection of hand-stitched shirts.
Dress shirts and business shirts all have one thing in common: long sleeves. "Short sleeves should never be worn unless you're on safari," says the Earl of March, of Goodwood fame. Meanwhile, at the other end of the style barometer, London mayor Boris Johnson adds: "Long sleeves are best because you can always roll them up."
Italian Vogue's Carlo Ducci knows exactly what's happening on the catwalk. He says, "In my opinion, shirts must always have long sleeves unless that is they are Hawaiian style or something you would wear to the gym. Besides, long sleeve shirts are more adaptable. The only accessory I like for men are cuff-links and even if I buy a shirt from say, the Gap, I'll have the cuffs adapted to fit them."
New York lawyer and author Roger Kirby is another advocate of the long sleeve. "Long sleeves, always - except during sporting exertions. Short sleeves, after all, carry the whiff of the simian: isn't it the chimpanzee that generally performs in something less than a long sleeve?"
Gianluca Vialli, ex-manager of Chelsea football club, also bats (or should that be shoots) for the long sleeve. "I only ever wear short sleeves to play football or golf - but they're polo shirts - not shirts."
French fashion designer Emanuel Ungaro adds: "What I find deeply unattractive are short sleeves," while Diego Della Valle, chief executive and president of Tods shoes, says, "I only wear light-blue (white for special occasions) buttoned-down Oxford cotton or jean shirts, and I've only ever worn long sleeves. They're just smarter."
According to Palestinian-born Middle East affairs writer Said Aburish, short sleeves are equivalent to short socks. "Both of these expose parts of the body that aren't particularly attractive," he notes.
Similarly, Luca di Montezemolo, chairman of carmaker Fiat, says: "I absolutely never wear short-sleeved shirts, nor short socks. If it's extremely hot, then I'll simply roll my sleeves up a little."
Count Giberto Arrivabene, a Venetian glass designer who lives on the Grand Canal, admits to having only ever owned one short-sleeved shirt: "It was a green one, from when I did my military service. I still wear it sometimes, but only at sea."
Film director Hugh Hudson, (Chariots of Fire, Greystoke, Revolution) also restricts his short sleeves to a specific context. "I made three films in Africa," he says. "It's so hot that you can only wear short sleeves on set." But there is, he says, another exception to the rule. "If you have tattoos, then short sleeves are essential wear, because the tattoo becomes the sleeve. I'm thinking of getting some."
But it's not only men in the boardroom or at the peak of their careers who seem to favour long sleeves. So too does a 15-year-old Etonian, who asked not to be named. "For a start, the shorter variety look quite odd - they make you look as if you are in the armed forces, not dressed for dinner."
忘掉一个纽扣还是两个纽扣的争论吧，忘掉能否在会议室里穿鲜艳短袜的问题吧。当谈到男性时装偏好的划分时，没有什么比袖子话题更热了。短袖还是长袖？这就是问题。
尽管眼下依然炎热，但对于大多数男性而言，这个问题的答案似乎还是只有一个。
出生在英国的设计师鲁弗斯•阿尔比马尔(Rufus Albemarle)宣称："只有T恤和马球衫可以是短袖。"去年，他推出了手工缝制衬衫系列。
正装衬衫和商务衬衫都有一个共同点：长袖。有古德伍德荣誉的马奇伯爵(Earl of March)表示："永远不要穿短袖，除非你出去旅行。"同时，处于另一个时尚风标终端的伦敦市长鲍里斯•约翰逊(Boris Johnson)补充道："长袖是最好的，因为你总是可以把它们卷起来。"
意大利《Vogue》杂志的阿洛•杜奇(Carlo Ducci)非常清楚 T型台上正在发生什么。他说："在我看来，衬衫必须始终是长袖的，除非它们是夏威夷风格或者你将会穿去体育馆。除此之外，长袖衬衫更加适用。我唯一喜欢的男性配饰是袖扣，并且即使我从Gap这样的店里买了一件衬衫，我都会买适合它的袖扣。"
纽约律师兼作者罗杰•柯比(Roger Kirby)是又一位长袖推崇者。"长袖是永恒的--除了运动以外。短袖，归根结底，带有一种猿猴的意味：通常难道不是黑猩猩穿着短袖类的东西在表演吗？"
切尔西足球俱乐部前任经理詹卢卡•维亚利(Gianluca Vialli)也支持长袖。"我从来只在踢足球或打高尔夫时穿短袖--但它们是马球衫--不是衬衫。"
法国时装设计师伊曼纽尔•温加罗(Emanuel Ungaro)补充表示："我所发现的非常没有吸引力的衣服就是短袖。"Tod's鞋的首席执行官兼总裁迭戈•黛拉•瓦尔(Diego Della Valle)表示："我只穿淡蓝色（特殊场合是白色）的领子扣于衬衫上的牛津棉布或牛仔衬衫，并且我唯一一直穿的是长袖。它们就是更漂亮一些。"
据出生于巴勒斯坦、撰写中东事件的作家赛义德•阿布里什(Said Aburish)表示，短袖就等同于短袜。他解释说："它们暴露出的身体部位都不是特别吸引人。"
同样地，汽车制造商菲亚特(Fiat)总裁卢卡•迪•蒙泰泽莫洛(Luca di Montezemolo)表示："我绝对从来不穿短袖衬衫，或者短袜。如果天气极热，我就会简简单单地把袖子卷起来一点。"
住在威尼斯大运河(Grand Canal)边的眼镜设计师康特•吉贝托•阿里瓦贝内(Count Giberto Arrivabene)承认曾经只有过一件短袖衬衫："是我在服兵役时得到的一件绿色衬衫。我现在有时还会穿，不过仅仅是在出海时。"
电影导演休•赫德森（作品有火战车(Chariots of Fire)，泰山王子(Greystoke)，革命(Revolution)）的短袖也是限于特定背景。他说："我在非洲拍了三部电影，那里的天气热到你只能穿短袖。"但他表示存在例外情况。"如果你有纹身，那么短袖就成了重要的衣服，因为纹身变成了袖子。我正想着弄一些纹身呢。"
不过，不是只有会议室里或者处于事业顶峰的男士才似乎喜欢长袖。伊顿公学(Etonian)一名15岁的学生同样喜欢，他要求我不要公开他的名字。"首先，袖子较短的衬衫看上去很奇怪--它们使你看上去像在军队里一样，而不是盛装打扮去赴宴。"
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And despite the fact that we are fast approaching the dog days of summer, for most men, it seems, there is still only one answer.
"Only T-shirts and polo shirts can have short sleeves", declares Rufus Albemarle, the British-born designer who last year launched a collection of hand-stitched shirts.
Dress shirts and business shirts all have one thing in common: long sleeves. "Short sleeves should never be worn unless you're on safari," says the Earl of March, of Goodwood fame. Meanwhile, at the other end of the style barometer, London mayor Boris Johnson adds: "Long sleeves are best because you can always roll them up."
Italian Vogue's Carlo Ducci knows exactly what's happening on the catwalk. He says, "In my opinion, shirts must always have long sleeves unless that is they are Hawaiian style or something you would wear to the gym. Besides, long sleeve shirts are more adaptable. The only accessory I like for men are cuff-links and even if I buy a shirt from say, the Gap, I'll have the cuffs adapted to fit them."
New York lawyer and author Roger Kirby is another advocate of the long sleeve. "Long sleeves, always - except during sporting exertions. Short sleeves, after all, carry the whiff of the simian: isn't it the chimpanzee that generally performs in something less than a long sleeve?"
Gianluca Vialli, ex-manager of Chelsea football club, also bats (or should that be shoots) for the long sleeve. "I only ever wear short sleeves to play football or golf - but they're polo shirts - not shirts."
French fashion designer Emanuel Ungaro adds: "What I find deeply unattractive are short sleeves," while Diego Della Valle, chief executive and president of Tods shoes, says, "I only wear light-blue (white for special occasions) buttoned-down Oxford cotton or jean shirts, and I've only ever worn long sleeves. They're just smarter."
According to Palestinian-born Middle East affairs writer Said Aburish, short sleeves are equivalent to short socks. "Both of these expose parts of the body that aren't particularly attractive," he notes.
Similarly, Luca di Montezemolo, chairman of carmaker Fiat, says: "I absolutely never wear short-sleeved shirts, nor short socks. If it's extremely hot, then I'll simply roll my sleeves up a little."
Count Giberto Arrivabene, a Venetian glass designer who lives on the Grand Canal, admits to having only ever owned one short-sleeved shirt: "It was a green one, from when I did my military service. I still wear it sometimes, but only at sea."
Film director Hugh Hudson, (Chariots of Fire, Greystoke, Revolution) also restricts his short sleeves to a specific context. "I made three films in Africa," he says. "It's so hot that you can only wear short sleeves on set." But there is, he says, another exception to the rule. "If you have tattoos, then short sleeves are essential wear, because the tattoo becomes the sleeve. I'm thinking of getting some."
But it's not only men in the boardroom or at the peak of their careers who seem to favour long sleeves. So too does a 15-year-old Etonian, who asked not to be named. "For a start, the shorter variety look quite odd - they make you look as if you are in the armed forces, not dressed for dinner."
忘掉一个纽扣还是两个纽扣的争论吧，忘掉能否在会议室里穿鲜艳短袜的问题吧。当谈到男性时装偏好的划分时，没有什么比袖子话题更热了。短袖还是长袖？这就是问题。
尽管眼下依然炎热，但对于大多数男性而言，这个问题的答案似乎还是只有一个。
出生在英国的设计师鲁弗斯•阿尔比马尔(Rufus Albemarle)宣称："只有T恤和马球衫可以是短袖。"去年，他推出了手工缝制衬衫系列。
正装衬衫和商务衬衫都有一个共同点：长袖。有古德伍德荣誉的马奇伯爵(Earl of March)表示："永远不要穿短袖，除非你出去旅行。"同时，处于另一个时尚风标终端的伦敦市长鲍里斯•约翰逊(Boris Johnson)补充道："长袖是最好的，因为你总是可以把它们卷起来。"
意大利《Vogue》杂志的阿洛•杜奇(Carlo Ducci)非常清楚 T型台上正在发生什么。他说："在我看来，衬衫必须始终是长袖的，除非它们是夏威夷风格或者你将会穿去体育馆。除此之外，长袖衬衫更加适用。我唯一喜欢的男性配饰是袖扣，并且即使我从Gap这样的店里买了一件衬衫，我都会买适合它的袖扣。"
纽约律师兼作者罗杰•柯比(Roger Kirby)是又一位长袖推崇者。"长袖是永恒的--除了运动以外。短袖，归根结底，带有一种猿猴的意味：通常难道不是黑猩猩穿着短袖类的东西在表演吗？"
切尔西足球俱乐部前任经理詹卢卡•维亚利(Gianluca Vialli)也支持长袖。"我从来只在踢足球或打高尔夫时穿短袖--但它们是马球衫--不是衬衫。"
法国时装设计师伊曼纽尔•温加罗(Emanuel Ungaro)补充表示："我所发现的非常没有吸引力的衣服就是短袖。"Tod's鞋的首席执行官兼总裁迭戈•黛拉•瓦尔(Diego Della Valle)表示："我只穿淡蓝色（特殊场合是白色）的领子扣于衬衫上的牛津棉布或牛仔衬衫，并且我唯一一直穿的是长袖。它们就是更漂亮一些。"
据出生于巴勒斯坦、撰写中东事件的作家赛义德•阿布里什(Said Aburish)表示，短袖就等同于短袜。他解释说："它们暴露出的身体部位都不是特别吸引人。"
同样地，汽车制造商菲亚特(Fiat)总裁卢卡•迪•蒙泰泽莫洛(Luca di Montezemolo)表示："我绝对从来不穿短袖衬衫，或者短袜。如果天气极热，我就会简简单单地把袖子卷起来一点。"
住在威尼斯大运河(Grand Canal)边的眼镜设计师康特•吉贝托•阿里瓦贝内(Count Giberto Arrivabene)承认曾经只有过一件短袖衬衫："是我在服兵役时得到的一件绿色衬衫。我现在有时还会穿，不过仅仅是在出海时。"
电影导演休•赫德森（作品有火战车(Chariots of Fire)，泰山王子(Greystoke)，革命(Revolution)）的短袖也是限于特定背景。他说："我在非洲拍了三部电影，那里的天气热到你只能穿短袖。"但他表示存在例外情况。"如果你有纹身，那么短袖就成了重要的衣服，因为纹身变成了袖子。我正想着弄一些纹身呢。"
不过，不是只有会议室里或者处于事业顶峰的男士才似乎喜欢长袖。伊顿公学(Etonian)一名15岁的学生同样喜欢，他要求我不要公开他的名字。"首先，袖子较短的衬衫看上去很奇怪--它们使你看上去像在军队里一样，而不是盛装打扮去赴宴。"
关键字:双语阅读
生词表:
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