酷兔英语

宜家(IKEA)决定销售食品时,它选择了与家具销售差不多的方式:少数几种标准化的产品,大量销售。其结果是:1.5亿个肉丸。这是宜家估计今年将在其门店餐厅卖出的肉丸数量。虽然这家瑞典公司更出名的是它价格低廉、需要自行组装的家具,但它的宜家餐厅(IKEA Food)部门也是个庞然大物,年度营收近20亿美元,能够与连锁咖啡店Panera Bread和三明治连锁店Arby's抗衡。宜家估计,今年将有约7亿人在全球300家宜家门店中的餐厅之一享用美食。


When IKEA decided to sell food, it chose to do it in much the same way it sells furniture: a few standardized staples, sold in large quantities. The result: 150 million meatballs.


这场美食运动开始于近30年前,当时的店铺经理胡尔贝里(Soren Hullberg)接到了建立一个食品部门的任务。节俭的宜家创始人坎普拉德(Ingvar Kamprad)担心,太多的购物者饿着肚子浏览该公司的货架。宜家的店面很大,来店的客人一次逛上几个小时可能会疲惫不堪。胡尔贝里说,他被告知要拿出一个规划,完全是瑞典风格,并且要符合公司一贯节省的方式。


That is the number IKEA estimates will be dished out in store cafeterias this year. Though the Swedish company is better known for its inexpensive, assembly-required furniture, its IKEA Food division is a behemoth, rivaling Panera Bread and Arby's, with nearly $2 billion in annual revenue. The company estimates about 700 million people this year will eat in one of the cafeterias that are located in 300 IKEA stores world-wide.


他拿出的解决方案是什么?三文鱼、烤牛肉、熏鹿排和瑞典深受喜欢的肉丸。每个国家的门店还可以选择一种当地美食为菜单增色。(瑞典人喜欢他们特产的烤肉或虾。)这些基本食物旨在成为宜家供应的任何菜式最基本的原料,无论是沙拉、三明治还是前菜。宜家的菜单多年来不断发展,各个门店也可以做出一些决定,但大体上,供应的食品受到严格限制。


The food push started nearly 30 years ago, when then-store manager Soren Hullberg drew the assignment to create a food department. IKEA's frugal founder, Ingvar Kamprad, was worried that too many shoppers were browsing the company's shelves on empty stomachs. IKEAs are huge, and visitors can get fatigued after walking the floor for hours at a time. Mr. Hullberg said he was told to come up with a plan that would be thoroughly Swedish and in line with the company's penny-pinching ways.


胡尔贝里说,我们决定了五道菜,因为在一家周六估计要供应5,000名顾客的店里,不可能在菜单上列出25道菜。客人会有太多选择。这样不行。员工没时间准备食物,存货也会太多。胡尔贝里后来离开了宜家。他在别致但价格低廉的Story Hotels之一接受采访。他如今在斯德哥尔摩拥有这家酒店。坎普拉德拒绝置评。


The solution? Salmon, roast beef, smoked reindeer steak and Sweden's beloved meatballs. Stores in each country were also allowed to choose one type of local fare to spice up the menu. (Swedes like their native sondagsteak or shrimp.) These basics were designed to be the bedrock ingredient of any dish IKEA served, whether a salad, a sandwich or a starter. The menu has evolved over the years, and individual stores can make some decisions, but generally, the offerings are tightly limited.


现场制作众多食品的想法被认为太过复杂。宜家决定将肉丸的生产外包。宜家提供了肉丸的配方和说明,瑞典食品供应商Gunnar Dafgard AB则成为签约供应商。


'We decided upon five dishes because you can't have 25 items on a menu in a store that is supposed to serve 5,000 customers on a Saturday,' Mr. Hullberg said. 'The guests will have too much to choose from. It won't work. The staff won't have time to get the food out and the inventories will be too big,' added Mr. Hullberg, who later left IKEA. He spoke at one of the chic but inexpensive Story Hotels he now owns in Stockholm. Mr. Kamprad declined to comment.


现年63岁的胡尔贝里可能已经转向了酒店业,87岁的坎普拉德现已退休,但这一理念留了下来——力推菜单上的一些餐品使其获得跟毕利(Billy)书架或拉克(Lack)桌子一样的受欢迎程度。宜家还出售可在家享用的食品。


The idea of making a lot of food on site was considered too complicated. IKEA decided to outsource meatball production. While IKEA came up with the formula and specifications, a Swedish food supplier, Gunnar Dafgard AB, was contracted to supply them.


宜家食品部门的现任负责人拉库尔(Michael La Cour)说,目标是要节约成本。宜家设计新颍物流方案以及削减能源支出的能力是出了名的,每年都会努力降低价格,而餐厅在这一战略之中处于核心地位。


Mr. Hullberg, 63, may have moved on to the hotel industry, and Mr. Kamprad, 87, is now retired, but the philosophy remains -- driving some of the items on the menu toward the same level of popularity as the Billy bookcase or Lack table. IKEA also sells food to be eaten at home.


拉库尔说,菜单跟我们开发家具的方式是一样的,都是从终端价格入手。


Michael La Cour, the current head of IKEA Food, says the goal is to conserve costs. IKEA is famous for crafting new logistics schemes and shaving its energy bills in an effort to keep cutting prices on an annual basis, and the cafeterias are central to this strategy.


结果就是,宜家的餐品对钱包的压力不大。比如,在布鲁克林区(Brooklyn),一盘肉丸15个只卖五美元。儿童餐起价2.99美元,包含鸡蛋、培根和土豆在内的早餐的起价是0.99美元。


'The menu is completely in line with the way we develop furniture,' Mr. La Cour says. 'We begin with the end price.'


今年早些时候,供应商Dafgard提供给宜家的肉丸中发现了马肉的成分。宜家把可疑产品下架,此事引发了一连串的负面报道。


As a result, IKEA's restaurant tab is easy on the wallet. In Brooklyn, for example, a plate of 15 meatballs is $5. Kids' meals start out at $2.99, and breakfast, including eggs, bacon and potatoes, starts out at 99 cents.


但这一事件似乎并没有影响到肉丸的需求。周一,克伦波尔茨(Patrick Krumbholz)来到斯德哥尔摩观看他的国家的足球队德国队对瑞典队的足球赛。他和他的一个朋友在这个城市必须要去的一个地方就是宜家。


Earlier this year, traces of horse meat were found in the meatballs sent to IKEA from Dafgard, the supplier. IKEA pulled all suspicious products from the shelves, resulting in a string of bad publicity.


克伦波尔茨说,我们住在市中心,但晚餐我们会特地到宜家吃肉丸,好吃又便宜。说话的时候,他的面前就摆着一盘肉丸,还有土豆泥和越橘酱。


But the incident doesn't appear to have dented demand for the meatballs. On Monday, Patrick Krumbholz was in Stockholm to see the world championship soccer game between his native Germany and Sweden. One trip he and a friend had to make while in town was a jaunt to IKEA.


最初,人们并不太能接受宜家卖肉丸这个想法。1985年,当胡尔贝里第一次把自己的方案拿到Dafgard去的时候,他说,他们笑话我们。有人问他,宜家是什么意思?你为什么要肉丸?


'We're staying in downtown, but we took the trip to IKEA to eat meatballs for dinner,' said Mr. Krumbholz, sitting with a plate of meatballs, mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam. 'They're tasty and cheap.'


数年之后,对很多进到宜家店里的人来说,吃肉丸已经成了一个必不可少的仪式。44岁的英国女士莫里斯(Annie Morris)现住在爱尔兰。她在一封电子邮件中说,星期天的时候停车位总是爆满。在驱车40分钟来到门店之后,莫里斯从不忘到来餐厅一趟。她离开的时候会买上几袋冻肉丸。这种冻肉丸加热15分钟之后就成为她四个孩子的一顿便餐了。


Originally, the idea of IKEA selling meatballs didn't get a strong reception. When Mr. Hullberg first took his plan to Dafgard, in 1985, he said, 'they laughed at us.' He was asked, 'What do you mean IKEA? Why do you want meatballs?''


在特殊场合的时候,菜单还会有一些变化。美国喜剧演员马利科夫(Mark Malkoff)是素食主义者,2008年的时候他曾在新泽西的一个宜家店住过一周,在店内的床铺上睡觉,吃宜家餐厅提供的食品,并在网站上记录他的体验。他说,我喝的越橘汁都有我体重这么大分量了,他们还给我特制了豆腐做的肉丸。


Years later, eating meatballs has become an essential rite for many people visiting the store. 'IKEA in Dublin is worshiped like a new church,' Annie Morris, a 44-year-old English woman living in Ireland, said in an email. 'On Sunday, the car park is always bursting at the seams.' Ms. Morris never fails to stop into the cafeteria after her 40-minute drive to the store. She leaves with bags of frozen meatballs, which can be heated in 15 minutes and make a convenient meal for her four children.


Jens Hansegard