酷兔英语


When it comes to shopping for fashion, women usually dominate, buying clothing for their men as well as themselves. But ladies, I have a gauntlet to throw down: Women have a lot to learn from the way men shop.


说到买衣服,通常都是女士占主导地位,她们给自己、也给自己的另一半买衣服。不过女士们,我这里有一句当头棒喝的忠告:买衣服时,应当好好学学男士的购物经。



I first sensed this when menswear designer Thom Browne told me that he couldn't use a fabric unless it felt good 'to the hand,' because men won't buy uncomfortable clothing.


我最初意识到这一点,还是因为男装设计师汤姆•布朗尼(Thom Browne)的一句话,他跟我说,他绝不会采用"手感"不好的面料,因为男士们是不会购买不舒适的衣服的。



Come again? If comfort were the top criterion for selling womenswear, Jimmy Choo would be out of business. Unlike men, women frequently settle for garments that don't fit well and don't feel good.


再说一遍?如果舒适是女装的最高标准,那么Jimmy Choo早就该关门大吉啦。女士跟男士不同,她们对那些不是那么合身、不是那么舒适的衣服安之若素。



Sometimes, women have little choice. It has long been an irritating truth is that men are offered better-quality clothes for lower prices. Many fashionable women's clothes -- including plenty sold at luxury prices -- are made relatively cheaply. 'Women do get shortchanged in the market,' says Patrick Gigliotti, a menswear salesman at the venerable Boyd's Philadelphia department store. Some women who value well-made clothing have even resorted to shopping in menswear departments.


有些时候,女士的选择余地确实是比较小。长期以来,女士们都面临着这样一个恼人的现状,那就是:男士服装比女士服装质量更好、价格更便宜。很多时尚女装品牌──包括很多价格非常昂贵的牌子──做工都比男装要差。久负盛名的费城博伊德百货公司(Boyd)的男装销售员帕特里克•吉廖蒂(Patrick Gigliotti)说,"女士们常常会成为冤大头。"有些注重服装品质的女士只好转战男装部购买衣服。



One reason for the quality difference is trendiness: Because womenswear is more faddish, there's a perception in the fashion industry that the clothes will be thrown away more quickly. Indeed, fast fashion has trained a generation to seek out throwaway styles.


男装女装品质之所以存在差异,时尚是其中的一个因素:女装更赶时髦,因此服装业有个约定俗成的观点,认为女装会更快地被束之高阁。事实上,快时尚已经培育出了一代即抛型服饰的拥趸。



Yet tailoring should matter. Women are always looking for clothes that will lift their bottoms and smooth their bulges. That's exactly the kind of magic that tailoring works. Luckily, with a little education about the way sophisticated men shop, it is possible to buy good-quality womenswear.


其实衣服的剪裁也是很重要的因素。女士们总是喜欢那些能够提臀收腹的衣装,这正是剪裁的神奇魔力。幸好,只要稍微学习一下有品位男士的购物经,我们还是有希望买到高品质的女装。



What does it mean to think like a man? Consider the way Jay Kos bought himself a pair of pants in New York last Sunday. Mr. Kos, himself a clothier and the owner of the Jay Kos store on Park Avenue, found a pair of olive wool pants at Soho's Blue in Green shop. But the pants had to pass a few tests before he took them to the dressing room. First, he felt the wool with his hand to ascertain its weight and softness. He checked the seams for clean stitching -- no loose threads. In the dressing room, he squatted to be sure they fit comfortably. Only then did he step out to take a careful look in the store's biggest mirror and ask the salesman if the pants fit well.


像男士一样思考意味着什么呢?来看看杰伊•科斯的购物之道吧,上周日他在纽约给自己买了一条长裤。科斯本人就是一位面料商,在派克大街(Park Avenue)有一家以自己名字命名的店铺。他在索霍区的Blue in Green商店里看上了一条橄榄色的毛料裤子,不过他在试穿之前就会给这条裤子把几道关:首先,他用手抚摸面料,以感知其份量和柔软度,然后检查接缝处──确认没有松懈的线。试穿的时候,他做了下蹲的动作,确保裤子舒服合体。然后他才走出试衣间,在店里最大的那面镜子前一边仔细端量,一边问售货员裤子是否合身。



This isn't the way most women shop. But it can be.


多数女士是不会这么买衣服的。但是这一点其实完全可以做到。



A first step is to put less focus on the brand. Logos don't guarantee fine craftsmanship. Dozens of luxury womenswear brands make high-quality fashions -- Dolce & Gabbana and Akris among them. But I've found excellently sewn clothes at Zara (though not universally so). Some brands, like Ralph Lauren, have varying quality levels among a dizzying array of sub-brands. Akris offers well-made but lower-quality clothes under the 'Akris punto' label. Rather than being blinded by branding, use it only as a starting point.


第一步,不要过于关注品牌。牌子响不一定保证做工就精良。有几十个豪华女装品牌出品优质时装──比如杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)和艾克瑞斯(Akris)。不过我在Zara也发现了做工非常完美的单品(当然并不是全部了)。有些品牌,比如拉夫•劳伦(Ralph Lauren),有着令人眼花缭乱的子品牌,其质量便是参差不齐的。艾克瑞斯的"Akris punto"系列做工依然精良,不过质地就会稍逊一筹。不要盲目相信品牌,仅仅作为参考就可以了。



When you like a garment, grab the fabric and crunch it up -- ignoring any gasps you hear from the womenswear sales staff, who are not accustomed to these maneuvers. If the cloth stays wrinkled or feels scratchy, considering moving on.


看上一款衣服后,首先用手去捏揉它的面料──不要去管一边售货员的吸气声,因为女装售货员对这样的行为还不是很习惯。如果面料变得皱巴巴了或者感觉很劣质,那就考虑走人吧。



'You should start from the inside out,' says Debi Greenberg, owner of Louis, a high-end store in Boston that caters to both men and women. Loose threads and ragged seams are signs of poor construction. Look for seams that have been carefully rolled and folded before being stitched down or have been 'taped,' or sewn over with a narrow strip of fabric.


波士顿经营男女高档服装的Louis店店主黛比•格林伯格(Debi Greenberg)说,"挑衣服时得先从里面看起。"有松线、针脚参差不齐就表明做工不佳。检查接缝处,是否仔细地卷边了,缝合前是否压平整或者拷边了。



In pants, the waistband is particularly important, as it provides structure and must hold up to sweat, pressure and twisting. In well-tailored pants, the waistband will have two layers of lining, with some structural seams in between. When it comes to pants, Ms. Greenberg recommends Proenza Schouler and Marni at the high end of the price range and Jil Sander for Uniqlo at the more affordable end.


买裤子的时候,要特别留意裤腰部位,因为它是裤子是否有型的关键,而且必须要能经得起汗水、压迫力和扭曲力的考验。剪裁精良的长裤,其裤腰部位必须有两层衬里,衬里之间有一些结构性的缝合。格林伯格推荐的裤子品牌,高端的是Proenza Schouler和Marni,价格实惠的则是优衣库(Uniqlo)的吉尔•桑达(Jil Sander)系列。



A good jacket starts with a shoulder that permits comfortable movement and isn't so stuffed with foam padding that it looks awkward with the arm raised.


外套要先看肩部,好的外套穿上之后,肩部应该活动自如,肩垫不能太厚,否则胳膊抬起时会显得很怪异。



While you're peering inside the garment, check out the width of the fabric in the seams. Is there enough to allow the garment to be let out, if necessary? While good men's clothing is manufactured to be altered, women often have to buy a size larger and then cut the garment down -- which can be more costly and difficult.


观察外套的内里时,记得检查针脚处预留的布料宽度。如果需要的话,这件外套还可以放大一些吗?高档男装是可以放大的,而女士通常就只能买大一号的来改小了──这样会更费钱也更麻烦。



It's a good idea to ask where the garment -- and sometimes the fabric -- were manufactured. 'Men love the story,' says Mr. Kos. 'If you're going to spend the money, then it should come from a place with a respect for quality.'


买衣服的时候不妨问问衣服──有时候还可以问问面料──是哪里生产的。科斯说,"男士喜欢问这个。你要花钱买这个衣服,总得保证它是来自一个注重品质的地方吧。"



The country of origin can be an indicator of quality, and it's certainly a fair indicator of price. Italy, France and Japan are famous for their high manufacturing standards, but their prices are higher than those of lower-labor-cost nations.


服装的产地可以是品质的风向标,当然也会是价格的风向标。意大利、法国和日本都有着很高的制造标准,不过其价格要远远高于那些劳动力成本低廉的国家出品的服装。



Still, 'made in Italy' is no guarantee, and it's possible to buy well-made clothes from many parts of the world. The 3.1 Phillip Lim brand makes some high-quality clothing in China with taped inner seams and alterable waistbands. J. Crew buys many quality shirting fabrics and cashmere yarns from Italian factories and then cuts and sews the clothes in less expensive countries.


当然,"意大利制造"也不能保证百分百没错,而且在其他国家也可以买到做工精良的服装。菲利林3.1(3.1 Phillip Lim)有一些带内锁边和可调式裤腰的高品质服装是在中国生产的。J. Crew从意大利厂商手中购入优质衬衫面料和羊绒纱,然后在劳动力低廉的国家进行剪裁和缝制。



Mr. Kos believes that garments and accessories that use a logo as the dominant design feature are more likely to take short cuts with materials or manufacturing.


科斯认为,那些利用商标作为主打设计元素的服装和配饰更有可能在材料采购及生产环节上走捷径。



Only after a garment has passed all these tests is it time to try it on. Be sure you can raise your arm in a shirt or jacket and that you can squat (without making the knees baggy) in pants. See if you can breathe easily. There should be no stretch marks across the torso and no gaping buttons.


一件衣服经历了以上种种检验之后,现在终于可以去试穿了。试穿衬衫和外套时一定要保证手臂可以自如举起,试穿裤子时要蹲下看看(可以轻松蹲下,而且膝盖那里撑过后不会鼓起来)。穿上之后,看看你能否自如地呼吸,衣服上不能有褶皱,扣扣子的部位不要被胀开。



When in doubt, remember what Mr. Gigliotti of Boyd's says about men's priorities: 'Comfort is paramount.'


如果你还有疑问,那就想想博伊德的吉廖蒂所说的男士的关注点吧:"舒适才是王道。"



Christina Binkley