The crypt of the Basilica di San Carlo al Corso near St. Peter's Square has boasted tombs of cardinal
s for centuries. Today it is taking
on a livelier vibe.
梵蒂冈圣彼得广场(St. Peter's Square)附近圣卡洛教堂(Basilica di San Carlo al Corso)的地下室一直以数世纪来红衣主教的安葬之地而名闻遐迩。但现在，它正在焕发一些新的生机。
Rev. Maurizio Mirilli, head of youth ministry
in Rome's Catholic Church, has converted a section of the crypt into a nightclub with a live-music stage and a bar stocked with beer, Prosecco and other wine. Father Mirilli has christ
ened the new watering hole GP2, short for 'Giovanni Paolo II,' as the late Polish pope was known in Italian.
莫里西奥•米瑞尼神父 (Rev. Maurizio Mirilli)是罗马天主教廷(Rome's Catholic Church)青年事工组织(youth ministry
)的负责人，他将圣卡洛教堂地下室的一部分改为酒吧，设有一个音乐表演舞台，吧台摆满了啤酒、普洛赛克起泡酒(Prosecco)和一些葡萄酒。米瑞尼神父将这个酒吧命名为GP2，即Giovanni Paolo II的缩写，这是已故教皇约翰•;保罗二世(John Paul II)的意大利语名字。
For Rome's young and restless
, GP2 is the prime destination
for mingling, dancing or having 'a drink with a bishop
,' Father Mirilli said Saturday night. He he leaned against the club's mirrored bar and nursed a glass of pineapple
juice as a phalanx of young men with gelled hair bobbed their heads to the Black Eyed Peas. Scrawled across the bar was a biblical passage from the Gospel of St. John, quoting Jesus Christ: 'Give me a drink.' (Actually, he was referring to water).
最近一个周六的晚上，米瑞尼神父靠在酒吧的玻璃吧台上，喝着一杯菠萝汁，看着一群发型各异的男青年跟随黑眼豆豆合唱团(Black Eyed Peas)的音乐摇头晃脑。他说，对精力充沛的罗马年轻人来说，GP2是聚会、跳舞或"跟主教来一杯"的首选之地。吧台对面的 壁上潦草地写着圣经"马可福音"(Gospel of St. John)中耶稣说过的一句话："给我来一杯。"('Give me a drink.'实际上，耶稣说的是给他一杯水
'There should be more places like this,' said Annalisa Gennaro, a 21-year-old theology
student, as she and a friend made their way into the club. 'It's about time the church woke up.'
Father Mirilli sees the club as a bridge
to carry young Italians back into the Catholic fold. Like most dioceses across Europe, the Vicariate of Rome -- as the city's local church is formally
known -- is looking for new blood. As it is, the pews at Basilica di San Carlo al Corso and other Roman churches have increasingly
become the domain
of the elderly
as fewer young people turn up for Mass.
米瑞尼神父将酒吧作为一座引导意大利年轻人重归天主教怀抱的桥梁。与欧洲大多数教区一样，罗马教区(Vicariate of Rome)--这座城市地方教会的官方称谓--正在寻找新鲜血液。在圣卡洛教堂和其它罗马教堂的长椅上，年长者日益成为主流，而年轻人来做弥撒的越来越少。
The Vicariate doesn't keep statistics
on practicing members of its flock. A recent nationwide poll by the Italian think tank Instituto IARD, however, found that only 15% of Italian Catholics between the ages of 18 and 29 consider themselves 'practicing Catholics,' compared with 18% in 2004.
Father Mirilli joined the priest
hood at the age of 29, when the late Pope John Paul II was gearing up for the church's Jubilee celebration
in Rome. Among the highlights of the Jubilee was the Vatican's World Youth Day, which brought two million young Catholics from around the world to Rome in droves -- an event that became known as the 'Catholic Woodstock.'
米瑞尼神父29岁时正式成为一名神职人员；当时，已故教皇保罗二世正在全力准备教廷每二十五年在罗马举行一次的大赦年(Jubilee)庆典。庆典的高潮之一是梵蒂冈的世界青年节(World Youth Day)，吸引了来自世界各地的200万名年轻天主教徒纷拥而至--这一活动被称为"天主教的伍德斯托克音乐会"(Catholic Woodstock)。
In the years that followed, the priest
took over the Vicariate's youth ministry
and began hunting
for ways to revive
the Jubilee's youthful
spirit. The crypt of Basilica di San Carlo al Corso, located along the city's main shopping strip, had long been a popular daytime
hangout for young Catholics. Father Mirilli decided
to raise a few thousand euros to remodel
the crypt's vaulted interior
into a nighttime hangout.
Two years ago, the priest
backing from ACLI, a lay group of Italian Catholics. 'Christian young people need to find a way to own the night again,' says Gianluigi De Palo, an ACLI organizer who frequents GP2. 'Being Christian doesn't necessarily
mean sad, serious or old.'
两年前，米瑞尼神父从意大利天主教会的一个事工组织ACLI那里找到资金支持。经常光顾GP2的一个ACLI组织者吉安路奇•德帕罗(Gianluigi De Palo)说，年轻信徒需要找到一个享受夜生活的方式，笃信基督并不意味着悲伤、严肃或者暮气沉沉。
Father Mirilli also got the nod from his boss, Bishop Ernest Mandara, who oversees the churches in Rome's historical
center and reports to Pope Benedict XVI. So far, there have been no complaints from on high, Father Mirilli says. 'This place wouldn't exist if [the pope] weren't OK with it.'
米瑞尼神父的举动得到了其上级欧内斯特•曼达拉主教(Bishop Ernest Mandara)的首肯，后者负责监管罗马历史文化中心区内的所有教堂，并向教皇本笃十六世(Pope Benedict XVI)直接汇报。目前，教会高层还没有表示任何反对意见。米瑞尼神父说，如果教皇不认可，这个地方不可能存在。
Many of GP2's features are typical
of the Roman bar scene. Speakers pump pop music and disco anthems. Bartenders in black T-shirts serve up drinks from 7 p.m. until midnight
, Sundays included.
Not all the rules of running
a successful club apply, however. There is no cover charge
to get past the club's dimly lit entrance. And there's no two-drink minimum
. In fact, clients are expected to observe a two-drink maximum
, and GP2 doesn't serve hard spirits, like vodka and gin.
'We don't keep a list of what every customer
orders, but we want people to drink, not to get drunk,' Father Mirilli says.
A big crucifix hangs on one wall, and footage of John Paul II is projected onto another. The music pulsing through GP2 should be of 'Christian inspiration,' the priest
says, though the club is 'sometimes' willing
to bend its guidelines to popular demand.
酒吧的一面 壁上挂着一个大十字架，对面 壁上则在投影播放着保罗二世的一段视频。米瑞尼神父说，GP2播放的音乐应该具有基督精神，不过，酒吧有时候也愿意应众多客人的要求而做出一些妥协。
On Saturday, a group of young women thrust
their hands and hips to the beat of a dance classic
, 'YMCA' by the Village People. 'There's nothing wrong with listening to a bit of secular
music . . . right?' the priest
And then there's the club confession
al. At the back of the club, a narrow tunnel
opens onto an undergroundchapel
where a marble
sarcophagus encases the remains of Federico Borromeo, the 17th-century cardinal
immortalized by Alessandro Manzoni's novel 'The Betrothed.' There, Father Mirilli recalled how he recently took a late-night confession
from a clubber.
酒吧还配有忏悔室。在酒吧的背面，一条狭窄的隧道通往一个地下小礼拜堂；这里的大理石棺里安息着17世纪的一位红衣主教费代里科•博罗梅奥(Federico Borromeo)，他因亚历山大•曼佐尼(Alessandro Manzoni)的小说《约婚夫妇》(The Betrothed)而永垂青史。在这个小礼拜堂里，米瑞尼神父回忆起最近某个深夜聆听一位酒吧客人做忏悔的情景。
'It was beautiful. Here's a kid that never goes to church, and he's here discussing the Gospel with me,' the priest
said, adding that he now plans to open a small counseling center adjacent
to the bar.
Although word of GP2 has begun to spread around town, the club is facing cutthroat competition
from a dark, leather-upholstered club next door. One of the city's posh clubs, it regularly
throbs with techno beats and scantily clad customer
s who overflow
onto the sidewalk
. GP2 can hold more than 100 people, but turnout recently has been far lower. Father Mirilli is working
hard to increase the numbers.
is 'keeping a lid' on prices, charging 2.50 (about $3.50) for a beer -- about a third of what his rivals charge
. Crimson fliers have been distributed throughout the city's churches emblazoned with the club's catch phrase
: 'Come and you will see!' The priest
says he is also working
his contacts to get Italian celebrities to show up and talk about their faith with clubbers.
David Mahawili, a 31-year-old luggage
handler, has become a regular at GP2. He says most other clubs attract people who are 'trying to act like someone they're not.' His friend Flaviano Tacchone, a 29-year-old optometrist, agrees. GP2 is the spot to 'get to know' a girl, he says, rather than 'pick her up.'
31岁的饭店行李员戴维•马哈维利(David Mahawili)已经成为GP2的常客。他说别的酒吧大多吸引一些装腔作势的家伙。他29岁的朋友弗莱菲亚诺•塔克恩(Flaviano Tacchone)是个验光师，也同意这种观点。他说，GP2是个了解女孩的地方，而不是搞定女孩的地方。
Stacy Meichtry / Nathania Zevi